Well we made it into Delhi but for a while there it didn't look good. It was looking like we cut the 7 hour drive back from Banghavgarh to Khujaraho a bit too fine when we got a flat tire on the way back. The car we were traveling in didn't have seatbelts but we were assured that "the road is very bad so you won't need them as you won't be traveling very fast". Its only about 230kms - 140 miles, but the road varies from good 2 lane blacktop to single lane blacktop with wide shoulders (you play chicken with each oncoming car) to really bad dirt road. One section is very odd - its bad and bumpy dirt road but its wide enough to take an 8 lane superhighway. After the flat, discovering that the spanner in the car didn't fit the tire, breaking the spanner of the good samaritan that stopped to help us, it wasn't looking all that good. But the next spanner worked and with some very speedy driving, and a delayed India Airlines flight, we made it OK.
Delhi hasn't been as crazy as we'd been expecting after hearing some stories from other travelers. We were prepared for a travelers nightmare, with rampant theft, beggars, congestion, filth etc. But it hasn't seemed any worse than other places we've traveled.
Pic of walls of red fort attached
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